Corsica
Corsica
Corsica is perhaps
best known as the birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte, that left
the island at the age of 9. Later FLNC (the Corsican Liberation
Army) and scared potential tourist away. Today you will find
the Corsican easygoing and open to help you around. However there
is activists that want to restore the Corsican language. Specially
around Propriano did we notice at lot of road signs, where the
French version was prayed over.
Vendetta murders
will always be linked to Corsican history, although they stopped
killing each other in 1954. A vendetta would normally start with
a dispute between two families, that resulted in murder. The
revenge gave a new murder, in the other family. Son revenged
his father etc. It is said that one of the vendettas lasted for
more than 200 years, and started with a dispute about a flock
of sheep that had been grazing on land claimed by the other family.
No chivalry, like duels, every dirty trick were exploited.
The Corsicans
are so proud, especially about their wines, their kitchen. And
old lady in a mountain village bakery, gave us a long lecture
on their breads, their pies and pizzas. A restaurant owner was
pleased to share much of his opinion on local dishes, when asked
the speciality of the house.
We definitely
disagree with British Rod Heikell, that in his Pilot declares
Corsican cuisine of no interest, except for seafood and fish.
Lately the tourism
has been exploited. Hopefully the Corsican authorities have learnt
a lesson and are able to keep their "rural" attitude,
whilst making their lovely island available for new generations.
Corsica has
a lot to offer. You may swim or go skiing the same day. For walkers
Corsica is a heaven, with many well marked routes (GRs), the
most impressive being GR20, a 15 day walk taking you from north
to south.
For sailors
Corsica has much and diversified nature to offer. And for the
rest: you will definitely find something that will make you wish
to come back.
Bonifacio
We crossed the
7 miles, narrow Bonifacio sound from Sardenia a sunny day late
in August. From a distance the SW coast looks rugged and with
steep cliffs all the way down to the sea level. Later you will
distinguish the white houses of the upper town of Bonifacio.
But the entrance into one of the finest ports of Corsica is only
visible from a short distance, when entering from SE. You may
have a good guidance from the many "Moby Dick" ferries
going between Bonifacio and St. Teresa di Gall on Sardenia, and
the  many tripper boats taking
tourists out to explore the caves and the wild nature around.
Once inside
the narrow "cala" the wind and water are calm and pleasant.
The old city and fortification up on starboard whilst the seaside
is full of small cozy bars and restaurants inside of the mooring
pontoons. If you manage to get a berth there, you will try to
find an excuse for moving on.
The old city,
up on the cliff, is a living city with narrow streets, steep
stairways and full of charm, in spite of the many souvenir shops.
Whilst up there take a stroll to the cemetery and along the bastions.
If you need some extra exercise, walk down the stairway carved
into the cliff, down to the sea level. The story goes that this
track was constructed in one night by one of the many warlords
stopped by the solid fortification. The intruders were discovered
by some women in the early morning, before the soldiers reached
the top, and the city was saved.
Sartene
 Sartene is a small village up on
the mountain side, on the road between Propriano and Bonifacio
Narrow streets and old building. According to history the last
Vendetta murder on the island took place here in 1954. The only
indication in that direction, might be the many shops selling
all kind of knives, definitely not intended for eating purposes.
Some books indicate that
the villagers are introvert and don't like tourist. Wrong. There
are several small restaurants. Show interest in their specialities,
based on wild boar and rabbit. And not to forget, they make a
really good red wine. In the market place there is a shop selling
their specialities. Here you might get at taste before you buy.
Filitosa
Some 10 km west
of Propriano, on the other side of the bay, a farmer in 1946
unearthed some stone formation that awoke his curiosity. Being
interested in archeology he soon got rewarded, when the old settlements,
going back 8.000 years, to the megalithic civilisation appeared.
He gave up farming and is today cultivating the touristic issue,
together with the rest of his family.
Today Filitosa
is one of the most interesting sites with appearance of megaliths
such as chests, dolmens, menhirs, showing the development of
the island during 6.000 years.
Rent a car in
Ajaccio and make a trip to Filitosa, Sartene, Bastilica and many
of the other villages up inland. On the road to Bastilica you
may enjoy the sight of one of those Genoese bridges, built to
promote the trade from this area, known for their cured meat,
from their black pig.
Pasquale Paoli,
the Corsican rebellion that gave The British an excuse to intervene
on Corsica, was born in Bastilica. A family member of Napoleon
made available a monument of him up here.
If you should
make your way up to Bastilica, go up and left of the statue of
Paoli, to a little bakery. Ask for their speciality and you shall
be rewarded. If the old lady id deceased, she will certainly
have taught her daughter to give a visitor a big excuse to try
their products.
Ajaccio
 Ajaccio is the major
city on the West coast, with a lot of commercial traffic with
mainland France. However Ajaccio is perhaps better known as the
birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte. He left the city at the age
of 9. Later, when in power, he made the city the administrative
centre of Corsica, dethroning Bastia on the East side, more convenient
when the island was under Genoese ruler ship.
Ajaccio remunerated
him with an impressive monument showing Napoleon and his 4 brothers
in Roman (Caesar) togas. (Why didn't they include the beautiful
sister, Pauline, as well?)
Ajaccio is the
port of entrance for traffic coming from France. Super ferries
and speed ferries come and go. The latter is not comfortable
to a cruising boat, if met at high speed, setting up waves as
expected in the "roaring forties".
Cargese
 Further north on the West coast
you will find Cargese, a town with a special history.
During the Ottoman aggression
the ancestors of the Greek population in Cargese approached the
 Geonese authorities
to get a freehold where they would be safe. Having trouble to
rule/control the Corsicans, the Genove administration saw an
ally in the 800 Greeks from Vitylo and Oitylos (Laconie). On
condition that they respected the Pope, they were given the land
around Cargese in 16th century.
The Greeks were hardworking
people. Better cultivating techniques as well made them prosper
to the envy of the Corsicans. In 1729 the Corsican revolted and
tried to displace the Greek population. They had some success
in the beginning, but then the Genoese came to assist.
Today there is little
tension between the two groups and "intertribal" being
the normal. Nevertheless there are still a Greek and a Catholic
church, facing each other and competing for the souls.
La Scandola Nature Reserve
& Golfe de Porto
 In
this part of Corsica the rocks are red thanks to iron ore. Coming
along this part of the coast, leaving Girolata early in the morning
and heading north, will give you a scenery long to remember.
La Scandola is a must for those  interested in nature and specially
in bird watching. Strict restrictions as to diving, fishing or
going onshore should be observed so that more of us may enjoy
the sight of the proud sea eagle.
South of La Scandola,
on the south side of Golfe de Porto and halfway to Porto, the
rocks have been exposed to the "performance" of wind,
rain and erosion for million of years. The result is sort of
a natural sculpture park. Similar formation, but as fanciful
might be observed around Asne de Roccalpina, North of Bonifacio.
Calvi
 As all places around Corsica Calvi
has a history going a long way back.
When coming by ship, the
impressive fortress looks impossible to conquer, lying on a small
peninsula with high mountains as a background. As a matter of
fact, nobody has succeeded to conquer it from the seaside. Lord
Nelson, however, didn't go by the book. He took his canons ashore
on the other side of the island and hit them from behind.
Calvi is a charming town
with narrow streets and lots of small boutiques, restaurants
and bars. Having seen the "live" fortifications in
Bonifacio, in Calvi they looks like not having recovered from
the surrender to Lord Nelson. Outside the town long stretches
of white beaches. From Calvi there is an old railway going to
Ile Rousse, and further on to Bastia.
St. Florent
St. Florent is one of
our Corsican favourites, a small town on the Northwest coast,
opposite Bastia. A charming town from a sailor's point of view
as, well as those coming by car. Although they are catering for
the tourists, you don't feel it a tourist trap. The town is genuine
with narrow streets, very good fishmongers and lots of restaurants
 along the seaside.
On the central town square teams of players enjoy the art of
"petanque", this French game played with "boules"
made of steel. The bar, next to the playground, is full of locals
commenting highly on their performances.
A mile inland lies the
Pisan built cathedral (12th century) that was abandoned in the
16th century, partly due to malaria threat, partly to get protection
from the Genoese fortifications. You may have the key at the
tourist office. It's well worth the trip. Unless you don't remember
that malaria was only controlled after WW2, you wonder why a
cathedral is lying out in farm land with few traces of a population
to serve.
Along the Corsican and
Sardenian coasts, Genoese traders built towers to control the
sailing routes and give secure shelter. 1745 to 1796 the British
fleet tried to get a stronghold in this part of the Med, supporting
Corsican rebels, like Pasquale Paoli. In 1794 Lord Hood conquered
St. Florent easily, but had to work very hard to make the Genoese
tower to surrender. He worked so hard, that he, after the surrender,
ordered his men to make an exact study of its design. Later this
drawing was used to build the many Martello towers in UK and
Ireland, to prepare for a possible invasion from Corsican born
Napoleon.
Bastia
Bastia, on the NE side
of Corsica, was the old "Genoese" capital, until the
officials of Ajaccio  complained
that Napoleon, as the French emperor, had done little or nothing
for his town of birth. As Ajaccio was more convenient to reach
from France, he complied.
Still Bastia is a thriving
city, thanks to the many ferries and super ferries, calling from
Italian mainland. Downtown, around the old harbour, Bastia has
not changed for many hundred years. It looks genuine, although
you still see "temporary" repairs after WW2 bombings.
Bastia/Corsica was the
first part of Europe to be liberated from the Hitler/Mussolini
regime. A story goes that English planes, by mistake bombed Bastia,
when the locals celebrated the surrender of German troops. We
mentioned the story to an old chap, asking us why we took pictures
of the repairs. He definitely would not agree to that story,
it was the Germans that bombed. And he being old enough to have
been a youth at that time, we didn't dare to challenge him more.
As a cruising visitor,
try to get a berth in the old marina, at the SB pontoons towards
t he inner city (in
the middle of the picture). There you are much more protected
to swell and strong winds than at the quay upon entering, next
to the marina office. Everything is relaxed. You find an available
place, and report to the marina office at convenience. Don't
expect to be directed to a berth.
If you are protected against
weather conditions, be aware of "an unofficial way of redistributing
wealth", as an African tourist brochure so cleverly stated.
A boat next to us lost all their fishing gear, during the night,
whilst on board.
Behind the old town you
find a "less older" city with buildings showing off
the wealth of the proprietor. Not in a way of a "parvenu",
as you find in America. Here it's with style. Go, visit the delicatessen
shop, not far from the market place, where you, beside admiring
the facade, can get hold of all the specialities of Corsica.
Corte
 From Bastia there is a train service,
serving Ajaccio as well as Bonifacio. This trail takes you up
to the university city of Corte. This is a most rewarding excursion,
taking you through some of the wilderness of Corsica. The inland
was the stronghold of the natives, whoever ruled out at the shores.
The "Eagles Nest", at top of the Corte fortification,
must have been the last resort.
Besides the narrow streets
of the old city, part of the old fortification has been converted
into a museum. This is an educational museum that tries to put
you into the scene and objects used, not exposing objects on
numerous shelfs. Actually it gives you a really good insight
in the whole Corsican history and evolution, how they lived,
worked and toiled.
For a Norwegian it's a
"shock" to enter the museum and be met by a large painting,
no dou bts the pencil stroke
of a well known Norwegian painter, Christian Skredsvig. Excited
we approached the ticket controller, for further information.
She sent us to the information desk, that had to telephone somebody.
Not without proudness the helpful woman was able to give us a
lecture on Skredsvig, a painter pupil of the most avid protector
of the Corsican culture. The picture was a gift to thank him
for his stay, teaching, and inspiration. When the man died he
gave all of his collection to this museum, including the painting,
showing his estate, outside Ajaccio.
Updated 08.12.2005
|