Sardinia - marinas & anchorages
We spent August 2002
exploring the westcoast, from Alghero up till Santa Teresa di
Gallura. Then came back in May & June 2003 to explore The
Maddalena archipegalo and the rest of the east side down to Calgari.
Our opinion on marinas and anchorages visited is personal, and might differ from others, but might be a supplement to the opinion of Rod Heikell. Marina charges, if given, is based on a sailing boat 11,98 m long.
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Porto Conte
Inside Capo Caccia opens up a "big
cala" well protected for all winds except from South. Porto
Conte is a small marina, with some facilities. A 15 minutes walk
and you may get basic provisions from the smallest "supermarket"
we've ever seen. We anchored outside, in shallow water, and had
a good time when speed boats and water scooter didn't show off.
In fair weather the anchorage is fine. Specially if you anchor NE of the marina, towards the beach.
There is another marina, being extended, on the oposite side, in Cala Tramariglio. We didn't enjoy their services either, but anchored outside.
The whole bay is shallow and we anchored several places on the west side, mostly used by the Alghero cruisers for day anchorages. Be aware of the sea weed and drop you anchor on sand patches. The sea weed is an important part of the fauna and as good sailors we should try to maintain it for coming generations.
Alghero
We approached
Alghero a Sunday morning, when all the locals went out for a
lunchsail this wonderful day. Be aware of the Italian machos,
they are worse than t
heir
Spanish counterparts. As soon as they are out of restricted waters,
full speed. They even salute you in a friendly way, whilst setting
up waves that makes you more occupied handling the boat than
"greet" them back.
Algerho, as most of the Italian ports visited, is organized with several independant "ormeagitories", that each has a lease to a part of the port. We called on Ch 16 for a berth, with little reaction. (Try Ch. 9.) Later came one of Frederico's men and guided us on to the "Nuovo Molo", on the Northern breakwater. Everybody was most helpful to get us berthed, even the crew of a big speedboat. Frederico is the ormeagitore himself, always looking to the comfort of his visitors. Formalities? Take a cup of coffe, formalities can be done tomorrow. Contact: fecrisa@tiscalinet.it, or request Frederico on Ch. 9. You may also have a look at http://www.portodialghero.com.
The "Nuovo Molo" is a bit away from the center of Alghero. However you are closer to two big supermarkets, on the road out of Alghero.
On the west part of the inner harbour you might find a place, but to us it looked like a "happening" with electric wiring like spaghetti. The centre of the inner port, that in Heikells pilots looks like a possible berthing area, is taken by the many tripper boats going out to Neptun's Cave.
Fornelli Passage
Sailing north, you can avoid some 20
miles going through the Fornelli passage. Maybe Rod Heikell came
here on a more windy day than we did.
We were terrified, approaching this narrow and shallow water, and with a local "racing boat" tacking through, having the right of way to us cowards, motoring. As soon as you recognize the masonery leading marks (in the picture) you are safe. And afterwards the passage is wider than you believe.
Inside the pilot says that anchorage is not allowed. We anchored there, Isola Piana, in company with 20 or so other boats, cruiser and locals. Holding ground is good on sand patches. (There is an urge to avoid destroying the weed vegetation.)
Stintino
You have four options: anchor inside
the breakwater in 8 meter. Good holding ground. Landing by dinghey
on a sandy beach.
Find a berth in one of the old "inland" marinas, or go to the new marina in NE corner. The latter was new in 2002, with water and electricity. But somewhat out of town. Several restaurants and bars along the seaside. Stintino is well worth a visit.
Castelsardo
A
marina somewhat away from the town. Good protection, experienced
during a near gale storm. Water and electrisity at the pontoons.
Stern to with mooring lines. Marina staff will meet you and direct
you to a berth.
Indicate a longer stay and you might get a berth further in. Friendly marinastaff, but few facilities besides two bar/restaurants. If you walk along the marina, it takes only 10-15 minutes to reach town.
Castelsardo is a nice old town with plenty of shops and restaurants. There is also good bus connection to Sassari.
Capo Testa
Anchorages on both sides of the peninsula. We started on the west side, close to the cliffs. Good holding ground on sandy patches. In the early morning the wind changed 180 degrees and came gushing direct in on us. Moved to the NE side. Very shallow on the inner side, but otherwise OK.
Santa Teresa di Gallura
41º14'N
06º09'E
Another port with different "ormeagitories" on each pontoon. We waited a long time untill somebody came out and directed us to a berth. Suggest you go in, to one of the pontoons on BB side, find a berth and wait. Inside the ferry berthing there are a few berths. Free? The BB pontoons are far away from town, and the facilities at the marina are limited, at least at the end of the season (end Aug.) Prices reflecting the vicinity of the Smeralda coast. Don't go there unless you have business to do.
Liscia 41º12'N 05º09'E
A large bay open to northerlies. In the east side we found most of the ground covered by weed. On the west side and in the middle sand. The bay more than a mile wide, makes it exposed to waves to be set up, inside the bay. No facilities
Palau 37º30'N 13º05'E
The port for all the ferries going out to Maddelena and other remote places. Going through by car, the city and marina looked OK at a glance.
La Maddalena archipelago
The Maddalenas has been declared a national park with strick restriction on its use. Perhaps the most important is that you in most of the places are not allowed to land a dinghy on the beach. But you can land people on the beach, anchor the dinghy and swim back. The reason is that the beaches are so small and few, that flooding them with dinghies would make them difficult as recreational areas.
To finance these conservation measures there is an admission fee, € 18 per day. A dinghy will come out and collect, or you can buy tickets at the tourist offices around the area.
Isola Budelli. In the wonderful little cala Spiaggia Rosa (Pink Beach) it is not allowed to anchor or go ashore. Up in the Secca di Morto (Deadman's Reef Passage) the authorities has installed buoys that can be picked up at no extra cost. We saw other boats anchor inside and south of the buoys. But care is needed since the bottom is rock and sand. If your boat is shallow you can also anchor further into the passage with better sandpatches.
Isola Caprera
is on the eastern part. We stayed at Cala Coticcio, a superb place, when not crowded. Being close to Porto Cervo you might expect some of the bigger yachts coming out to anchor, outside, and bring the guests in by dinghies. Later the crew will come in with buckets of ice to cool their drinks. But at night they're gone, most of them. We were the only yacht inside the cala a night in June. Arrive there before the "jetset" awake after their nightclub visit, ans you will get a good anchorage. Or go out there in the afternoon and reanchor. If you come after 1600 the fee collector has been there.
Golfo di Arzachena
This is the "fiord" south of the Maddalenas, lined with beaches and some calas. We came there, from Ponza, with a fresh tail wind. A wide berth on BB side at Tre Monti, and you are at Cala Mucchi Bianchi, a cala with mostly good holding and well sheltered from north/east/southerlies. rom the southern part of the beach it's a 10 min. walk and you have several shops, and normally a mobile fishmonger with his own cooling facilities. Another 10 min. walk and you are in "Baia Sardenia", a Smeralda copy, even with a little church playing tunes on the bells at intervalls. Lots of restaurants, bars etc.
On
the other side of the golfo lies Golfo delle Saline , a large bay, 2 miles away from Cala
Mucchi Bianchi, that cover the other wind directions. We prefered
to anchor at the little beach, between the hotell and the sail
school marina. Sand and good holding. Inland there is a camping
are, said to offer basic provisions. Behind there is a huge tourist
development with detached houses and villas. But they are nicely
landscaped into the area and don't stand out. From there it's
a hour walk up to the top of Capo
d'Orso, with
a magnificant view of The Maddelenas and southwards.
Cannigione 41º06'N 09º26'E
The marina on the west side, outside a tiny charming tourist place. Try to get on the inside of the pier.
The manager of the marina speaks several languages and is a very sympathic person. We needed spare parts for our Perkins diesel. (The Volvo dealer wouldn't bother, although the Volvo is a copy of our Perkins). After 3 calls in vain, he got our man, called him and got what he needed of information to order a new part. He refused any kind of money compensations, but was nearly excited when we later offered him a pweter troll from Norway, as a souvenir. Inside the area there are several nuraghi excevations. We rented a car to exploit these plus the less known inland.
Marina prices: € 12 in May, € 30 first half of June, Then € 40 per night.
You way also anchor SW of the marina, towards the end of the "fiord". Be aware of bad holding ground in some places.
Porto Cervo
If you want to pay a premium to show off, go there. Otherwise stay away. Even to anchor outside has not much to offer, since the limited shops ashore are not catering for the ordinary cruisers.
Cala di Volpe
37º30'N 13º05'E
This enclave is a gem in most winds. We managed to anchor inside the Cala, well sheltered for the prewailing winds. Anchor on the east side of the cala, outside the water ski area.
Be aware of the many machos with their water bikes, that believe their "kick off" is a shared pleasure with you. A neighbour of ours entertained us with his saxophone, melancoly. What more can you ask for?
Outside the cala we counted some 20 yachts/megayacht anchored.
Olbia 37º30'N 13º05'E
Olbia is a industrial and ferry port. We went there by car, to pick up spare parts. Had a glimpse of the marina, but can give no opinion on performence. However, the area looked somewhat dull to us.
Porto della Taverna 
A large bay south of Olbia and inside Isola Tavolara. We liked the atmosphere, specially on the east side, with lots of rocks and funny stone formations scattered among smaller summer houses. At the bottom a large beach. No facilities that we could notice. On the east side take some care to find a sand patch for you anchor. Open to the north
Cala Coda Cavallo 37º30'N 13º05'E
Another cala with no facilities, except a beach bar. Anchor on pure sand in crystal clear water. Well sheltered for west/south/east. Open to north west.
Santa Maria Navarrese 37º30'N 13º05'E
A new port under a little, lazy village. Decent service. Splendid service in the bar. We had trouble with the fridge and had to keep the box cold by ice cubes. When the barmen understood our problem, we didn't have to ask for ice, they asked if we needed more. Free! (well they sold us some more beer than normal). € 27 end June. German co sailors have reported favourable prices on 1 year contracts.
Villasimius 37º30'N 13º05'E
An extended marina with the intention of being a "supermarina". A lot of buildings bave been set up. Besides the marina office very little of the building area has been contracted. Service good unless you ask difficult questions.
Next to the marina there is a huge camping area, where you can get provisionings. Enter the area from the beach, unless you want to walk a mile.
Outside the marina you can anchor in sand with excellent holding.
Cagliari 39º11'N 09º06'E
The capital of Sardinia.
A big commercial port with lots of ferries.
We stayed at the "new" marina, Marina di Sole, next to the shipyard in the eastern part. A kind of "happening" but superb service. They even make telephone calls for you, if your Italian is not updated. € 22 early in July. The only trouble is that the marina is far away from the centre of town (as are the other marinas). The Lega Navale marina, next to, is closed for other than members. In the inner city, east of the ferries there is a little "enclave" with Guaria di Finanza and other officials on the east side. On the west side we saw 1 or 2 visiting yachts. Rumors even indicated free of charge. In any case there will be very few such berths.
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Updated 9.12.2003