Jabiru Service Bulletin JSB-012-1
The Jabiru Service Bulletin calls for an inspection and re-torque of the flywheel bolts. If you are alone, this is a way to lock you propeller when you torque the bolts.
First, the alternator has to come out. There are four bolts and nuts to remove. The nuts on the fuel pump side and under cylinder #4 are not easy to access. Sometimes I wish I had tiny fingers bent at 90 degrees. :-)
When the four bolts are gone, you have to pry gently to get the alternator bracket out of the dowel pins. Here, I use the handle of a hammer. Because my Kitfox has very little space between the engine and the firewall, I had to remove the airbox with the filter.
Once the alternator is removed, the six flywheel bolts can be accessed. You can use the same Allen wrench that you use to torque the cylinder heads.
The airbox is a nice place to hold the alternator when working on the flywheel.
I use a gas torch to heat the bolts to 150 C and soften the Loctite. I keep the flame on the bolt for about one minute. Then it comes off rather easily.
I remove two bolts at the time,and diagonally. Removing all of them would loosen the timing device, which would require a major engine rebuilt. Don't even think about it!
The pair of bolts are then cleaned from old Loctite with a 5/16 UNF die.
New Loctite 620 is then applied. The bolts are torqued to 24 lbs-ft.
I use 0.01" copper sheet as spacers between the flywheel and the ignition coils before I tighten the alternator bracket bolts because those also keep in place the coils.
When everything was back in place, I went for a traffic pattern, just to check that the engine was fine.

Note: if you had a prop strike, if you have vibration, if any of the flywheel bolts show wear or are loose, contact your Jabiru dealer and replace the bolts. Mine were just fine, after 160 hours.

Michel Verheughe. 18 Nov. 2006