Learning to lead.

This is the story about how I learnt leading

Second year climbing I borrowed a rack from a friend and startedto play around placing pro at the base of the crag. I tried to place pro while top roping a few times, and I seconded a few multi-pitch routes. My first attempt to lead was up a 4 meter high very easy route. The first pro fell out by the rope movements, The 2nd and 3rd pro my belayer "cleaned" by shaking the rope after I finished the climb. It was my only "real leading" attempt that year...

Next year i decided to give it a try again. My first try was to lead up some bolted routes that i had top-roped before. The step from top -roping to leading on a well protected bolted route (that you know you can climb) is not that big, but you get used to climbing with the rope from underneath, and to clip the quickdraws and the rope. I onsighted a bolted route rated 1-2 grades under my tope-rope capablity. The next step was to try routes with natural pro.I bought my own rack (a set of Wallnuts, a set of Perrins (1/2 price!) Hexes #7, 8 and 9 as well as some quickdraws, slings and biners. First i tried some routes that i had top roped many times and was easy to protect. I discover how pumped your arms can be when fumbling, trying to find the right piece. I deliberetly overprotected the climbes, placeing many pro. If possible, I had an experienced climber to rap down or second the route checking every placements and giving me comments.

My first multi-pitch leading was on a easy 3-pitch route where you can stand and rest on your feet almost everytime you place a pro. The second pitch was rather long. When i got to the belay ledge I had very little of my rack left, especially of the bigger pieces. The peaces i needed to set up the belay was of course just the pieces I already used. I managed to place 3 pieces, one was good, the other two, however, was not 100% bomber. The last pitch went alittle zig-zag and I descovered the horror of rope drag.

Since then I have been doing quite a few lead climbes. I'm starting get moreroutine. I can spot where to place which pro much quicker.

• You should allways be able to downclimb in case you need to bail out.
• Don't climb past a good "pro-crack" just because the climbing right now is easy. You might want the protection further up. The best placements are those placed when you are not under stress. Place pro before the difficult sections in such way that you can climb the difficult section without stops. (depends, of course, how long the difficuls section is)
• On the start of the pitch, you need to place pro frequent and as bomber as possible.
• On traverses, remember your second might want protection too. When leading, you is protected from the pro behind you. The second has to remove this pro before climbing where you was protected.
• A belay stand must be 100% bomber. Place at least 2 pros, often more. When belaying a leader, at least one pro should be able to withstand upward pull.

It's not possible to place pro everywhere. Sometimes you know that if i fall now i might get hurt, for example above a ledge or on long runouts. The question is then; should I climb on or should i back off? Don't hesitate to back off, then the only thing that will get hurt is yourself confidence. Think of it this way: the best climbers are those whoknow when to bail out. (I use this as self-comfort, anyhow) This is of course dependent of how easy the climb is. What I dislike most is to make a belay stance, and not knowing if I can trust every piece. I'll rather have one 100% bomber pro than three 95%. I have left to experience a fall on natural pro. I don't trust them 100% yet and i'm not pushing the limits of my capability.

Disclamer:

I am NOT an experienced climber. This is the story about how I learnt leading. I'm not claming it's the best way. Leading IS more dangerous than top-roping. You might get killed.